Adjustable sleeve-drafting apparatus



(No Model.)

P. E. BUDDINGTON. ADJUSTABLE SLEEVE DRAFTING APPARATUS.

Patented Nov. 18, 1890.

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UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

FRANK E. BUDDINGTON, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS.

ADJUSTABLE SLEEVE-DRAFTING APPARATUS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 440,692, dated November 18, 1890.

Application filed March 10, 1890- Serial No. 343,248- (No model.)

reference being had to the accompanying paratus.

drawings, forming part of this specification.

My present invention has for its object to provide a simple, durable, and effective form of apparatus, by which the sleeves of garments can be cut with exactness, and the parts of which can be much more quickly and simply adjusted than has been possible with prior devices of this class.

My invention consists in the various novel.

features of construction hereinafter described, illustrated in the accompanying drawings, and particularly defined in the claims at the end of this specification.

Figure 1 is a plan view of my improved ap- Fig. 2 is a perspective view. Fig. 3 is a View in vertical transverse section on line 3 3 of Fig. 1. Fig. 4 is a view in vertical section upon the dotted lines shown adjacentthe wire B, Fig. 1.

The main frame of the apparatus comprises the bars A and A, fastened rigidly together, as at a, each of these bars being preferably formed of sheet metal, with inwardly-bent flanges 2 and 3, respectively. The flanges of the bar A are by preference bent upwardly and inwardly, while the flanges of the bar A are bent downwardly and inwardly, and between the flanges 2 of the bar A there is held in a manner free to shift the adjustable slides B and C. To the bar A is also united the slideway or extension 1), having flanges (Z, this slideway or extension serving to receive the adjustable bar E, (for convenience termed the length-of-sleeve bar,) the upper face of which is provided with a suitable scale 6. The plate E is preferably formed of sheet metal, having its edges provided with flanges that are flattened against the face, these flanges serving to retain the strip of paper or like material whereon the scale 6 is printed.

WVithin the flanges 3 of the plate A is mounted in a manner free to slide the adjustable plate F, (for convenience termed the arms-eyemeasure plate,) this plate F being also preferably formed of sheet metal, having flanges f bent over upon its face and serving to retain thereon the scale f, that is printed upon a suitable strip of paper or like material.

To the outer end of the plate or bar E is fixed the section G of the wrist-bar, this section G being furnished with inwardly-bent flanges 9, between which is held in a manner free to slide the section G of the wrist-bar, having a scale 9 upon its upper face, this scale being preferably printed upon a paper strip held in place by means of flanges g of the section G of the wrist-bar.

To the section G of the wrist-bar is suitably fastened-as, for example, by headed pins l-the wires H and K, these wires passing through tubes or loops 20, attached to the ends of the sections H and K of the corresponding forearm-wires. The opposite ends of the wires H and K are fastened, as at 6 and 7, respectively, to the sections of the elbow-bar L and L, the section L of this bar being formed with inwardly-turned flanges Z, that serve as guides for the section L", and this section L of the elbow-bar is provided upon its upper face with a scale Z, 'Jreferably printed upon a strip of paper or like material, held in place by means of the bent-over flanges of the plate L.

To the outer end of the section G of the wrist-bar is attached, as at 8, one end of the section M of the outer forearm-bar or outline Wire, this bar passing through a suitable loop or tube 20, attached to the end of the section M of the outer forearm-bar or wire, and the opposite end of the section M is fastened, as at 9, to the end of the section L of the elbowbar. The section L of the elbow-bar is fixed to the sliding block C, that is held between the flanges 2 of the bar A, the upper face of the bar A being provided with a scale ct, whereby the proper position of the elbow-bar may be determined.

To the section L of the elbow-bar is attached, as at 6, the section N of one of the upper-arm outline bars or wires, this section N passing through a tube or loop 20, attached to the end of the corresponding section N of this bar. To the section L of the elbow-bar is attached, as at 7, one end of the section 0 of one of the upper-arm bars, this section passing through a tube or loop 20, affixed to the end of the section 0 of this bar, and to the outer end of the section L of the elbowbar is attached, as at 9, the section P of the outer upper-arm bar, this section passing through a loop or tube 20, affixed to the end of the corresponding section P of this bar. One end of the section N of the inner upperarm bar is attached to a pin 10, projecting from a plate I), that is fastened to the slideplate B. One end of the section 0 of .the middle upper-arm bar is attached to a pin 11 rising from a plate 12, that is fastened to or formed in piece with the sliding plate F, and one end of the section P of the outer uppera-rm bar is attached to a pin 13, also projecting from the plate 12.

To the pin 10, that is carried by the extension 5 of the sliding plate B, is attached the ends of the wires or bars R and S, that pass through tubes or loops 20, attached to the ends of the corresponding bars or Wires R and S, that have their ends attached, as at 14and11, to the plate 12.' Each of the plates or bars F, G, and L will be preferably furnished with a spring or friction-plate 25, which, while permitting the plates to be freely moved, will prevent their accidentally slipping after they have been set to the desired position.

In the'construction of the pattern-bars of my improved apparatus I prefer to employ wire, not only on account of its lightness, but because it can be conveniently bent to the desired shape, and the parts can be adj ustably connected together in effective manner, while giving ample rigidity to the structure. The pins to which the wires are connected are preferably headed pins, as seen in Fig. 3, and the wires are attached thereto by simply forming the loops at their ends to encircle the pins. This mode of connection is simpleand effective in that it permits a pivotal movement of the wires Where necessary.

From the foregoing construction it will be seen that in cutting a sleeve-pattern my apparatus may be used as follows:

Before the apparatus is set for the cutting of the pattern the operator should have five measurements -viz., first, the armseye measure,that is taken around the arm, halfway between shoulder and elbow; second, shoulder-to-elbow measure, that is taken from point of shoulder to the elbow, with the hand resting on the front waist; third, lengthof-sleeve measure, that is taken from shoulder -bone to one and one-half inch above joint at the Wrist, around outside point of elbow, hand resting on waist; fourth, elbow measure, that is taken around the elbow, and, fifth, wrist measure, that is taken around the wrist.

The operator, in order to set the apparatus for the arms-eye measure, will draw out the plate F until the figure upon the scale f appears at the edge of the plate A. To obtain the shoulder-to-elbow measure, he will move the slide 0 and the elbow-bar L L until the edge of the slide C appears above the num ber upon the scale a corresponding to the shoulder-to-elbow measure. For the lengthof-sleeve measure the slide E will be drawn out until the number upon the scale 2 appears beneath the edge of the bar or slideway D. For the elbow measure the section L of the elbow-bar will be drawn out until the proper number upon the scale Z of this bar appears beneath the edge of the section L of the elbow-bar, and to obtain the wrist measure the section G of the wrist-bar will be drawn out until the proper number on the scale g appears beneath the edge of the section G of the Wrist-bar. The machine will then be placed upon the cloth, and with a pencil the operator will mark around the inside of the wires and wrist-bar for the upper portion of the sleeve, and will then move the machine and mark out the under portion by following the central wires and the wrist-bar. The operator will then cut out the sleeve, allowing a half-inch seam all around. By employing a frame for the pattern-wires I not only avoid the necessity of making these Wires of such size as to permit a scale to be marked thereon, but I also obtain greater rigidity and permit the apparatus to be more quickly adjusted and to be more readily handled Without danger of disturbing its adjustment.

The details of construction above set out may be varied without departing from the spiritiof my invention, and features of the invention may be employed without adopting the device as an entirety.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. A sleeve-drafting apparatus comprising an outer frame formed of suitable portions or barssuch, for example, as A and A con nected together to form an angle, a slide-bar F, adj ustably connected to the bar A, a slide bar E, adjustably connected to the bar A, a wrist-bar formed of adjustable sections and adj ustably connected with said bar A, an elbow-bar, an outer-outline bar connected with said wrist-bar and with the slide-bar F and the elbow-bar, and an inner-outline bar, substantially as described.

2. A sleeve-drafting apparatus comprising a series of inner and outer outline bars or wires, whereby the forearm and upper-arm measurements may be outlined,'and in addition to the outline bars or wires a frame for sustaining said bars or wires, said frame being provided with an elbow-bar adjustably connected thereto, with a wrist-bar adjustably connected thereto, and with an arms-eye measure bar adj ustably connected thereto, said arms-eye bar, said elbow-bar, and said wristbar being suitably connected with the outline bars or wires, substantially as described.

3. A sleeve drafting apparatus comprising a frame formed of bars A and A, independ- IIO dent of and in addition to the outline bars, a series of outline bars or wires, whereby the forearm and upper-arm measurements may be outlined, an elbow-bar adjustably mounted upon the bar A, and a suitable slide for connecting said elbow-bar with the bar A, substantially as described.

4. A sleeve-drafting apparatus comprising a frame in addition to the outline bars and for sustaining the same, having an elbow-bar adj ustably mounted thereon, an arms-eye bar adj ustably connected to said frame, a lengthof-sleeve bar adj ustably connected to said frame, and a WI'lSt-btbfOlIIlGd of adjustable sections connected with said length-of-sleeve bar, and suitable outline bars or wires, substantially as described.

5. A sleeve-drafting apparatus comprising a series of outline bars or Wires, whereby the forearm and upper-arm measurements may be outlined, a wrist-bar and an arms-eye bar, and a rigid frame in addition to said outlinebars and for sustaining said outline bars or wires, said frame being provided with flanges forming slideways adapted to receive suitable adjustable supports forthe wrist-barand armscye bar, substantially as described.

6. A sleeve-drafting apparatus comprising in addition to the outline wires the main frame for sustaining said outline wires and lying outside said outline wires, an elbowbar, and a wrist-bar, an arms-eye bar, and outline wires formed of sections adjustably connected together, substantially as described.

'7. A sleeve-drafting apparatus comprising a main frame in addition to the outline bars or wires, a slide B, mounted upon said main frame, and suitable outline Wires connected to said slide B, and suitable parts co-operating therewith, substantially as described.

8. In a sleeve-drafting apparatus, the combination of a main frame, an arms-eye bar, an elbow-bar, a wristbar, and outline Wires, a slide B, and suitable bars or wires R R S S, attached to said slide, and suitable means for connecting said several parts, substantially as described.

FRANK E. BUDDINGTON.

Witnesses;

GEO. P. FISHER, J r., I. B. CARPENTER. 

